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But as you stroll down Main Avenue after grabbing a steaming cup at Durango Coffee Company, you’ll realize this is not a city stuck in the past.

A luxurious bathhouse—which still stands on the property of the upscale 4UR Ranch—was built to accommodate the soakers.

Pedal a few blocks to merge onto the seven-mile Animas River Trail at Ninth Street.

About a mile north, you’ll find Animas Brewing Company, the newest addition to Durango’s craft-beer scene.

Locals know to check the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad schedule to beat the tourist rush for dinner.

(FYI: If you have an extra day, there’s no better way to see fall foliage than the nine-hour trip to Silverton and back through the San Juan National Forest.) For a nightcap, drop by the 128-year-old Strater Hotel’s Diamond Belle Saloon, which is just as hokey—ragtime piano players, servers costumed as dance hall girls, period-dressed barkeeps—and fun as it sounds.

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